Travelogue from Kilimanjaro: wow, how worthwhile that was

In June 2018, Jude climbed Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route. Read about what she experienced on the tour below.

The start

A day before departure, in the Springlands hotel, we were approached by an Englishman who had just completed the climb and wished us every success, tongue-in-cheek. He said encouragingly that it had been a tremendous experience for him, but “never again”. Hmmm, that does make you a bit unsure, but we were also aware that we were facing a great adventure. I felt privileged to be able to make this beautiful journey, and I felt fit and prepared. The day before the start, we were introduced to our two guides and we were given information about the course of the track and the latest practical tips.

The first few days passed quite easily and I had to get used to the ‘slow’ walking pace: ‘pole pole’. It was actually nice, moving down a gear and finding peace in yourself. As a result, we were given the opportunity to admire the beautiful rainforest alternated by a lunar landscape and to keep our eyes peeled for spotting monkeys.

Arrival at the camps

When we arrived at the camps, the porters had already put up our tents, got hot water ready so we could get washed and we were soon given food and drink. For that matter, there was no lack of this: hot tea, coffee or energy drinks, fruit, popcorn or crisps and an evening meal, lunch and breakfast in generous portions. To be on the safe side, I had brought nuts, dried fruit and muesli bars, but I didn’t even touch two-thirds of them.

My first challenge

Day 4 was a tough day during which we walked across a vast surface, with strong winds, and then arrived at a height of 4500 metres at ‘Lava Tower’. We were to have lunch there and then continue walking (downhill). At a height of 4300 metres I felt fine, but a moment later I had a severe headache and nausea: symptoms of altitude sickness. I was pleased when we continued our trip again and I arrived at the last Baranco camp at 3900 metres and then immediately lay down in the tent. After lying down for 2 hours, I felt fine again and I could look round the camp.

The Baranco wall

We could already see the Baranco wall in the distance, the challenge for the day after. I found this a really nice part to complete, even though I did not look forward to ‘scrambling on hands and feet’, because of my injured wrist; but it turned out to be comparatively easy. It felt cool to climb along the rock face and it gave a new dimension to the trip. After 1.5 hours, we arrived at the end of the rock face and the result was astonishing. At first, we only saw mist, but suddenly ‘the curtain opened’ and a brilliant mountain appeared, covered with snow.

It was wonderful how the sun shone on this magnificent mountain and the meaning of ’Kilima jaro’ in Swahili/Masai – ‘brilliant mountain’ – was clear. Motivated by the beauty of the mountain and because I felt fine again, I was confident of reaching the top.

The tough final leg

It felt like a highlight reaching the Barafu camp: the last base camp before the top, only 4.3 km from Stella point and 5 km from Uhuru peak. The number of hours set aside for this distance of ‘just 5 km’ says enough: 7 hours. This climb to the top would be difficult …

We slept during the afternoon and evening, so that we could start ‘the climb’ well-rested at midnight, in the dark and wearing head lamps. The advice was to wear at least 4 layers of clothing because it would get very cold. The drinking water in the camel bags would freeze. As someone who hates the cold, I had taken that very seriously, but after walking for 1 hour I was far too hot. Due to the altitude (less oxygen) and physical effort, I noticed that my body was hard at work: shallow, fast breathing and definitely not cold.

Unfortunately, after walking for 4 hours, I felt the symptoms of altitude sickness again. Despite diamax pills, drinking plenty and walking slowly, I suffered from it again. After climbing for 5 hours, a number of hours of which was walking through snow, wearing crampons (very cool for that matter), we arrived at Stella point. Just on time, because I had a ‘severe headache’, felt nauseous and doubted whether I could go on. I knew that from Stella point it was only another hour of walking and quite flat: so just keep on going! Without the sour the sweet ain’t as sweet, is it? After vomiting once (with enthusiastic applause from the guides who predicted that I was guaranteed to feel better now), I continued the climb.

And wow, how worthwhile that was: what a great achievement, a feeling of pride and a milestone to be standing on top of this brilliant mountain.

Regards, Jude, TourCompass